French Flair With Indonesian Style

My Lombok recently spoke with Koen, who, with partner, Jelle, has steered a successful course with their popular restaurant, Knalpot, in Kuta.

When did you first become interested in food, and why?

I’ve been interested in food for as long as I can remember. I could be because my grandma was an amazing chef and I have always been willing to try everything.

And Friday was my father’s day off and he would go to the market to buy fresh fish and cook it. So Fridays was always our fresh fish and chips day!

What other dishes do you remember when you were growing up?

I always loved Zuurvlees, with French fries and homemade mayonnaise. It’s a local dish from the south of the Netherlands – a Flemish stew of meat,  game meat, marinated with onions and vinegar. I have been cooking it forever. 

Was there a particular moment when you decided you would make cooking your career?

A very particular moment. I bought an encyclopedia about food and cooking and that was when I realised that being a chef was a very serious and well-respected career. It also made me realise that I would have to put in 100% to be successful. I haven’t regretted it for one single second.

How did your family react when you told them you wanted to become a chef?

They were very happy I’d finally made my decision. I thought everyone had to become a manager and be a boss and that is why I studied business at first. It was my dream to have my own business; I just didn’t realise it would be a restaurant.

Could you tell us something about your background and your career so far?

I’ve been working since I was 15 years old; I started as a dish washer at a pub in my hometown and slowly learned to cook simple food. Then, unfortunately, my boss broke his leg and so, in a way, I got my break – the chance to run the kitchen, as there was no one else to take over.

I began to study international business while I was still working in the kitchen but I decided it wasn’t really the path for me and I decided to focus fully on cooking. I started cooking school, but shortly afterwards, because my boss was no longer being subsidised for teaching me, he gave me a month to prove myself in the kitchen, which worked out well. 

After 2 years, I moved to Amsterdam. I worked in brasserie style restaurants for 3 or 4 years but I decided I wanted more. I was aiming higher. I was already a sous chef but when I got a job at a 2-star Michelin restaurant, I was happy to go back to being a commis chef.

It was a tough first year but then I ended up running a restaurant in Singapore and that is where my love for Asian food came from; I stayed for 3 years and became the head chef. It was while I was working there the restaurant got a Michelin star.

How did you come to your current position at Knalpot?

I was in Lombok on holiday when I met Jakob Johansson from Tampah Hills. He offered me the chance  to work there and that’s how I ended up at Knalpot. I have been running the kitchen for 2 years and now we have also opened Podjok Ijo – more of a ‘labour of love’ project for me and Jelle, my co-owner.

I  have also created the bar menu at Captikus – the ‘secret bar’. Our next project is the Beach Club at Tampah Hills, which is due to open in the near future.

How would you describe or define your style of cooking? 

I’ve always loved French fine dining. All my traveling has been around Asia and I have a real passion for Asian food. I like intense flavours. Malaysian and Singaporean foods are perfect examples of what fusion food can be. The countries are full of immigrants and new dishes are created by combining the dishes from different countries and cultures: a melting pot.

That has influenced my cooking style. The techniques are mainly French and 90% of the ingredients are from Indonesia. 

A chef’s job is to prepare food with love so people just have to try it. If you are passionate about your job, you also need to educate about food.

Tell us about the concept for your menu at Knalpot

In Lombok it is sometimes difficult to get produce, so I try to use the local ingredients in a creative, international style. We use Indonesian ingredients but doesn’t mean we always cook Indonesian food. We also make our own cheeses. Anna makes the cheeses: blue cheese and creamy cheese, made from Indonesian goats’ milk; and Camembert.

Which dish do you most like to cook?

Malaysian seafood curry – it’s the best dish in the world. Everywhere you go it changes, though; it’s a real reflection of the place where you are. 

Which dish do you think is the guests' favourite? 

Octopus and the Tuna Ssam – a tuna tartare served in a salad leaf. It adds a refreshing touch to anything you eat.

Do you have favourite ingredients you like to cook with?

Any kind of seafood is my favourite.

Which are your 'must have' kitchen gadgets? 

My chef knives. Definitely.

Describe a typical day at work

I’m a co-owner of the restaurant – not just a chef – so I come in to check the figures and financials are right. I see if anyone needs help with anything in the kitchen, then I usually pick one or two jobs I need to do myself. I look for new suppliers; decide on the  daily ‘Chef’s Special’; and I check the flavour of all the dishes – I try everything first.

What do you like most about your job and what is the biggest challenge? 

I love that there’s always good food available. Our challenge is to be able to please all of our customers – locals and tourists. Some are willing to experiment, but  others want things done a certain way. For the menu, I tend to make it 30% experimental and 70% what everyone wants. 

What do you like most about living and working in Lombok?

The work-life balance is very good. And because Lombok is central in SE Asia, it’s very easy to fly to Bali or other Asian countries.

What do you like to do in your spare time? 

What spare time? If I have any, I like to travel.

What foods do you really love to eat?

I really love anything that is local and specific to the region I am in at the time.

Are you the cook at home?

Well, we have only one day a week are off and then we tend to go out. But I do like to cook at home for friends and family.

Other than creating great food, what are the most important qualities that make a successful chef?

You need to be a motivator. You need to be able to transfer your knowledge to other people. You also need to have great organisational skills.

Who is your favourite celebrity chef, and why?

I have two favourites. Daniel is a Tokyo British guy who cooks French food in Japan. His perfection and simplicity are amazing – unbelievable! And Josh Nyland because of the way he approaches cooking with fish

Do you have any tips for budding chefs?

Work and listen. 

Don’t think you know it all at a young age. 

And, if you get to a place where you find the work is easy and you can manage it well, then it’s time to step up and go for a more a challenging job.

Have courage.

And never quit!

‍